Vines in the veins
Written by Gavin Suttie
As Greek wine enjoys a well-earned spotlight on the international stage, one woman is weaving family tradition with a modern, experimental flair. Meet Chloi Chatzivaryti.
In the small town of Goumenissa, nestled in the northwestern reaches of Greece, sits Domaine Chatzivaritis, a family-run winery now helmed by the dynamic Chloi Chatzivaryti. Goumenissa is a unique pocket of Greek winemaking — five of its six wineries are family-owned, with four operated by women of the second generation. But the Chatzivaryti’s story doesn’t follow a traditional script. This isn’t a fifth-generation estate where winemaking was always the family’s lifeblood — though wine has long been a passion in the Chatzivaryti household.
In 1984, Chloi’s parents began producing wine simply for family and friends. “They did it out of pure love and joy about wine, with no professional views on it,” says Chloi. Their talent became quickly apparent. By 1993, her father took the plunge, planting organic vineyards and laying plans for their own winery. In 2005, Domaine Chatzivaryti was born, with the first official vintage released in 2007.
Chloi’s father laid the groundwork — organically farmed vines and a strong ethos of environmental respect. “My father set the ethos of organic viticulture in an effort to respect the environment and the people. Me, as a second generation, I am taking it further by applying biodynamic practices and producing wines with minimal interventions. Our goal is to offer true and honest wines able to express our region and ourselves,” she explains.
The wines Chloi crafts today are far cry from the wines that her father produced in the early 2010’s, and should be viewed as the perfect combination of learning from both family and peers. After earning a degree in Agricultural Engineering in Greece, she pursued a Master's in Oenology and Viticulture in France — “in order to travel,” she says. A self-described “reactive child,” she loved the idea of wine, but not being told what to do. Her passion truly ignited after working harvests in France, New Zealand, Argentina, Chile, and studying further in Portugal. Only then was it that Chloi “fell in love with wine”, and returned to Greece.
“When I came back to my family winery, I was full of ideas and a will to create. I would say that my travels and wine experiences abroad shaped me more as a winemaker, but my family affected my personality — which is inevitably shown in my wines.”
Her winemaking journey has been anything but linear. She has worked with a diverse range of producers: from the grandeur of Chateau Margaux in Bordeaux and the large-scale Brancott Estate in New Zealand, to the natural, low-intervention philosophy of Domaine Leon Barral in Faugères. It was the latter that inspired her to return home and take the family winery to the next level. “I was very impressed by their love for the vines, the way they took care of them and the level of autonomy they were able to reach in this small village.”
Today, Chloi’s wines are a true liquid representation of the person that made the wines. There is a fine line of balance between the playful and the serious. Wines that are equally at home in a neighbourhood wine bar or on a Michelin-starred list.
Her fresh and lively ‘Migma’ Pet-Nats, and bistro-by-the-glass friendly ‘Mosaic’ red and white blends represent the introduction to the Domaine’s modern character and style.
The MiNiMus range is where the volume gets turned up to eleven. 'Mi' is a rich, barrel-fermented Assyrtiko; 'Ni' a skin-contact Malagousia with nearly two months of skin contact; and 'Mus' a finely textured Xinomavro matured in old French oak. All are naturally fermented, unfiltered, and produced with minimal sulphur.
'Spin' showcases a lighter style of red from the local Negoska variety — aromatic and fruit-forward, it could easily be mistaken for something from central Spain. Meanwhile, the PDO Goumenissa offering nods to her fathers winemaking and the region’s tradition: a Xinomavro and Negoska blend aged at least 12 months in old oak, delivering Nebbiolo-like fragrance and savoury depth.
Yes, these are natural wines — but they’re also clean, pure, and focused. “I think that I am getting more mature, searching for clean taste and aromas,” Chloi reflects. “In the beginning, I was very enthusiastic and intense, anxious and restless — which I think reflects in my first wines. Now I am more focused and detailed, calmer, more experienced, and still creative.”
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Drink it…
With your friends, on a picnic blanket, when the mercury reaches 25 degrees, out of little paper cups.
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Drink it…
On a midweek night during a hard week, when you really need a glass of something delicious with dinner.
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Drink it…
At your monthly book club, when everyone brings a bottle, and you are showing off your great taste in wine.
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Drink it…
On a Sunday afternoon, in a big fancy wine glass, when it’s a little cold outside, and there is something roasting in the oven.
Chloi Chatzivaryti represents modern Greece: forward-thinking, stylish, and rooted in heritage. And she’s only getting started. “I always see my winemaking as an ever-evolving project — and that’s what makes it interesting. After every harvest, I spend a lot of time thinking about what can be improved and how. We only get one chance per year. I love experimenting with winemaking techniques and trying out every crazy idea that comes to mind. I am very lucky to have a group of people working with me who also enjoy this creativity very much.”
With winemakers like Chloi leading the charge, Greece is no longer a fleeting moment — it’s a full-blown movement.
This article was first published at ISSUE 2 Oysters & Martini Magazine: Our Day Ones
